The travel across the border into Italy held a number of surprises for us. We experienced several emotional extremes... it was a time of high stress and incredulity, mixed in with hour upon hour of inactivity that demanded extreme patience.
The above picture shows how we spent the first night of the journey.
Let me explain how this happened...
We booked a ticket for the train, and had our timetable worked out to get us to the station in nearby Marseilles with time to spare. Soon enough, the day for our departure arrived. We headed to the bus stop, only to find our bus was not running. As the next scheduled bus would not get us to the station in time, we began to search for a taxi. This proved difficult, but eventually we did secure one and slipped into it just as the late bus headed off. I told the driver we had a train to catch, and on hearing the details, he switched into Extreme Taxi mode. French passion took over as he pushed his Peugeot to speeds in excess of 160km/h and we were launched down the highway, only slowing (to a mere 120 in a 100 zone) when overtaking a police vehicle.
Arriving safe but a little sweaty to the train station, I sent Naomi to the platform to hold the train while I thanked our racing taxi driver and juggled all of the luggage. Struggling through the gates with 50kg in my arms, I saw Naomi staring in disbelief as the train slowly crept out of the station... leaving without us.
Knowing that the next train was not for another 24 hours, we set off to find somewhere to spend the night in the meantime.
It was suggested that we head to Marseilles Airport, as there are many hotels nearby. Many full hotels as it turned out. Weary and more than a little fed-up, we found ourselves a quiet corner near one of the departure lounges and stretched out for the night. And that is the story of our first picture!
Following this night, we successfully boarded the correct train and joined our cabin companions in disappointment and despair at the vast difference between the French and Italian rail experience. A little man was perched on one of the bunks in the couchette, staring forlornly at his socks and making small sighs every now and then. Some time after midnight, an Italian joined us to occupy the remaining bunk, and spent the first 20 minutes muttering to himself "oh, Madonna".
Good training for our time in India at the end of the year, perhaps?
Eventually, we did arrive in Florence and it was certainly worth all the trouble.
Watching the sun set over the River Arne was almost as much of a treat as hearing how Naomi saw "walruses" playing under one of the bridges during her morning walk.
Italian gelati was hard to resist. More so for some than others, but then again that is the nature of ice cream everywhere... not just in Italy!
The special cones did not only attract human tourists. After just one taste, this little birdie kept coming back for more.
The joys of the Mercato Centrale will stay with us for a long time. A large indoor food market, with fresh produce on the upper level and deli/meat/seafood below. Although it was a great place for us to do our regular shopping, we also found the generosity of the deli tasting system quite irresistable.
Actually, it was me who got all excited. Naomi did her best to maintain a civilised air to counterbalance my brief feeding frenzy. The marinated Porcini mushrooms that came home with us helped to sustain the grin you can see me wearing here.
A big part of being in Florence is to visit museums and galleries. We certainly did our best to cover those that seemed to suit our interests. Also big in Italy, is the enforcement of photography bans within these sights. So, our images may not be of Masters' works, but we try to keep them interesting for you.
Everyone loves the Duomo. Even the lawmakers - they allow you to take photos there!
The facade is truly spectacular. Striking in its detail, and the immensity of scale. The green, white and red marble at the front end has been restored. Walking around the building, you can see just how good this restoration is. The contrast between original condition and restoration areas is quite notable.
While waiting in the queue, I saw a delightfully amusing man who was determined not to be defeated by his technology.
He had a folding magnifying glass, that he would use to operate his mobile phone. I am not sure what he was doing with it, but I watched for at least ten minutes and there did not seem to be much progress.
A+ for effort.
Once inside, the floor goes almost unnoticed as you crane your neck upwards to peer at the great dome. It is, however, really worth a closer look.
Of course there is more to see than floors and domes. Every building and monument is fascinating in its own way, with colourful historical tales - some of which may even be true.
During our time in France, we had become fond of the Audioguide.
The concept did not translate as well to the Italian curators. Although we were persistant, we rarely encountered an English guide that stimulated or engaged us in the way they had done in France.
The Basilica of Santa Croce boasts some premier burial tombs and monuments. Michelangelo, Galileo, Rossini, Machiavelli... the list goes on. The sculptures and carvings in the Basilica are spectacular.
It was quite interesting to see the galleries in the neighbouring monastery, where there is a display of pieces that were damaged in the 1966 Arno floods.
This is a detail of one of the large 15th century paintings that has been restored. The before/after images in the archives were quite remarkable.
These long days of touring can be grueling. Our shortlist of "must see" sights in Florence had 21 items on it, and we are not the types to pop our heads in the door, just for the sake of checking one more off the list.
With such a busy schedule, we were lucky to discover areas clearly designated for rest. They appear from time to time on the street.
I was not 100% positive I had the technique right, but I did my best to fit in.
While wandering through the streets, we occasionally spotted references to local wildlife. No walrus monuments, however turtles seem to pop up in unlikely places.
We had heard much about the walk across the river, up the hill to the Piazzaiolo Michelangelo. It was indeed a beautiful walk, with winding paths through vibrant green areas and interesting historical buildings along the way.
At the top stands one of Florence's two full-size replicas of Michelangelo's David. We hardly noticed it - the 5m tall statue was lost in a sea of teenagers who had gathered for a music festival. It was quite entertaining, right down to the bras being flung at one of the singers.
In true Italian style, the medical emergency professionals huddled together and chain-smoked while the hoards of teenagers ran amok around the stage area.
We spent some time watching the crowds, and also enjoyed the spectacular views of Florence spread out below.
However, the highlight for me was in one of the water-filled grottoes on the windy path back to the river.
Turtles! Dozens of them. At first it seemed as though they were a bronze sculpture, but as we peered closer to the fetid waters we saw beady little eyes blink lazily in our direction.
I know that turtles are not fluffy or cuddly , but (much to Naomi's horror) I just could not resist reaching in to grab one.
It was very cute! And I made good use of the Aqium disinfectant afterwards, much to Naomi's relief.
We treated ourselves to a special pizza meal one evening. The setting was lovely, but nothing matched the pizza we had on our first evening in town at a grubby little cafe around the corner from our apartment.
Being in Florence was an interesting experience for us. We really felt like we were navigating through a sea of tourists. This was ok, because it is a simple reality that there is just so much to see in Florence that is of such a high quality.
We loved the work at the Bargello. We were humbled by Brunellesci. There was a fantastic (although small) exhibition at one gallery of preliminary and preparation drawings from the Renaissance. It was very much a pleasure for me to see this one.
By far the highlight for both of us would have to have been Michelangelo's David - the real one - in the Galleria dell'Academia. Unfortunately a no-photo zone, we drank in all we could with our eyes in our time in the gallery.
The outdoor gallery at the Loggia della Signoria was a fantastic place to watch the world go by. Not only for the sculpture, as can be seen in the images above/below... but also for the people watching.
It was entertaining to see the officials with their whistles, diligently patrolling the area and startling absent-minded tourists. It was also entertaining to watch the young Italian men as they watched Naomi stroll by!
We were, of course, there for the scultptures. And you can see that they are quite remarkable.
Florence had many charms and also many annoyances. We enjoyed our time there very much, but we were also happy when the time came to leave.
The final image is of a bicycle that had been locked up a little too close to the road...
The above picture shows how we spent the first night of the journey.
Let me explain how this happened...
We booked a ticket for the train, and had our timetable worked out to get us to the station in nearby Marseilles with time to spare. Soon enough, the day for our departure arrived. We headed to the bus stop, only to find our bus was not running. As the next scheduled bus would not get us to the station in time, we began to search for a taxi. This proved difficult, but eventually we did secure one and slipped into it just as the late bus headed off. I told the driver we had a train to catch, and on hearing the details, he switched into Extreme Taxi mode. French passion took over as he pushed his Peugeot to speeds in excess of 160km/h and we were launched down the highway, only slowing (to a mere 120 in a 100 zone) when overtaking a police vehicle.
Arriving safe but a little sweaty to the train station, I sent Naomi to the platform to hold the train while I thanked our racing taxi driver and juggled all of the luggage. Struggling through the gates with 50kg in my arms, I saw Naomi staring in disbelief as the train slowly crept out of the station... leaving without us.
Knowing that the next train was not for another 24 hours, we set off to find somewhere to spend the night in the meantime.
It was suggested that we head to Marseilles Airport, as there are many hotels nearby. Many full hotels as it turned out. Weary and more than a little fed-up, we found ourselves a quiet corner near one of the departure lounges and stretched out for the night. And that is the story of our first picture!
Following this night, we successfully boarded the correct train and joined our cabin companions in disappointment and despair at the vast difference between the French and Italian rail experience. A little man was perched on one of the bunks in the couchette, staring forlornly at his socks and making small sighs every now and then. Some time after midnight, an Italian joined us to occupy the remaining bunk, and spent the first 20 minutes muttering to himself "oh, Madonna".
Good training for our time in India at the end of the year, perhaps?
Eventually, we did arrive in Florence and it was certainly worth all the trouble.
Watching the sun set over the River Arne was almost as much of a treat as hearing how Naomi saw "walruses" playing under one of the bridges during her morning walk.
Italian gelati was hard to resist. More so for some than others, but then again that is the nature of ice cream everywhere... not just in Italy!
The special cones did not only attract human tourists. After just one taste, this little birdie kept coming back for more.
The joys of the Mercato Centrale will stay with us for a long time. A large indoor food market, with fresh produce on the upper level and deli/meat/seafood below. Although it was a great place for us to do our regular shopping, we also found the generosity of the deli tasting system quite irresistable.
Actually, it was me who got all excited. Naomi did her best to maintain a civilised air to counterbalance my brief feeding frenzy. The marinated Porcini mushrooms that came home with us helped to sustain the grin you can see me wearing here.
A big part of being in Florence is to visit museums and galleries. We certainly did our best to cover those that seemed to suit our interests. Also big in Italy, is the enforcement of photography bans within these sights. So, our images may not be of Masters' works, but we try to keep them interesting for you.
Everyone loves the Duomo. Even the lawmakers - they allow you to take photos there!
The facade is truly spectacular. Striking in its detail, and the immensity of scale. The green, white and red marble at the front end has been restored. Walking around the building, you can see just how good this restoration is. The contrast between original condition and restoration areas is quite notable.
While waiting in the queue, I saw a delightfully amusing man who was determined not to be defeated by his technology.
He had a folding magnifying glass, that he would use to operate his mobile phone. I am not sure what he was doing with it, but I watched for at least ten minutes and there did not seem to be much progress.
A+ for effort.
Once inside, the floor goes almost unnoticed as you crane your neck upwards to peer at the great dome. It is, however, really worth a closer look.
Of course there is more to see than floors and domes. Every building and monument is fascinating in its own way, with colourful historical tales - some of which may even be true.
During our time in France, we had become fond of the Audioguide.
The concept did not translate as well to the Italian curators. Although we were persistant, we rarely encountered an English guide that stimulated or engaged us in the way they had done in France.
The Basilica of Santa Croce boasts some premier burial tombs and monuments. Michelangelo, Galileo, Rossini, Machiavelli... the list goes on. The sculptures and carvings in the Basilica are spectacular.
It was quite interesting to see the galleries in the neighbouring monastery, where there is a display of pieces that were damaged in the 1966 Arno floods.
This is a detail of one of the large 15th century paintings that has been restored. The before/after images in the archives were quite remarkable.
These long days of touring can be grueling. Our shortlist of "must see" sights in Florence had 21 items on it, and we are not the types to pop our heads in the door, just for the sake of checking one more off the list.
With such a busy schedule, we were lucky to discover areas clearly designated for rest. They appear from time to time on the street.
I was not 100% positive I had the technique right, but I did my best to fit in.
While wandering through the streets, we occasionally spotted references to local wildlife. No walrus monuments, however turtles seem to pop up in unlikely places.
We had heard much about the walk across the river, up the hill to the Piazzaiolo Michelangelo. It was indeed a beautiful walk, with winding paths through vibrant green areas and interesting historical buildings along the way.
At the top stands one of Florence's two full-size replicas of Michelangelo's David. We hardly noticed it - the 5m tall statue was lost in a sea of teenagers who had gathered for a music festival. It was quite entertaining, right down to the bras being flung at one of the singers.
In true Italian style, the medical emergency professionals huddled together and chain-smoked while the hoards of teenagers ran amok around the stage area.
We spent some time watching the crowds, and also enjoyed the spectacular views of Florence spread out below.
However, the highlight for me was in one of the water-filled grottoes on the windy path back to the river.
Turtles! Dozens of them. At first it seemed as though they were a bronze sculpture, but as we peered closer to the fetid waters we saw beady little eyes blink lazily in our direction.
I know that turtles are not fluffy or cuddly , but (much to Naomi's horror) I just could not resist reaching in to grab one.
It was very cute! And I made good use of the Aqium disinfectant afterwards, much to Naomi's relief.
We treated ourselves to a special pizza meal one evening. The setting was lovely, but nothing matched the pizza we had on our first evening in town at a grubby little cafe around the corner from our apartment.
Being in Florence was an interesting experience for us. We really felt like we were navigating through a sea of tourists. This was ok, because it is a simple reality that there is just so much to see in Florence that is of such a high quality.
We loved the work at the Bargello. We were humbled by Brunellesci. There was a fantastic (although small) exhibition at one gallery of preliminary and preparation drawings from the Renaissance. It was very much a pleasure for me to see this one.
By far the highlight for both of us would have to have been Michelangelo's David - the real one - in the Galleria dell'Academia. Unfortunately a no-photo zone, we drank in all we could with our eyes in our time in the gallery.
The outdoor gallery at the Loggia della Signoria was a fantastic place to watch the world go by. Not only for the sculpture, as can be seen in the images above/below... but also for the people watching.
It was entertaining to see the officials with their whistles, diligently patrolling the area and startling absent-minded tourists. It was also entertaining to watch the young Italian men as they watched Naomi stroll by!
We were, of course, there for the scultptures. And you can see that they are quite remarkable.
Florence had many charms and also many annoyances. We enjoyed our time there very much, but we were also happy when the time came to leave.
The final image is of a bicycle that had been locked up a little too close to the road...
3 comments:
"designated areas to rest in Florence"..very funny! - Josh
That Pizza in Florence looks delicious..sure beats Giordino's on Glenhuntly Road
I remember David was awesome - 10 feet tall and larger than life - Susan's jaw just kept dropping. But I don't remember no turtles!!....J
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